Which wine is best to make Coq au Vin?

A traditional Coq au Vin comes from Burgundy - and would have been made using local Burgundy wine - but many French regions have their own version of a chicken and wine dish. Coq au Riesling from Alsace, is made with Riesling, producing a golden coloured dish and Coq au Violet is made using Beaujolais Nouveau, to name but a couple of regional examples of this French peasant dish.

My recipe will work with a whole range of wines - and I use whatever is convenient - from rich and fruity to lighter reds or even white wine - but in the words of famous cookery writer Julia Child "If you do not have a good wine to use, it is far better to omit it, for a poor one can spoil a simple dish and utterly debase a noble one." As a rule of thumb, I would not cook with a wine that I wouldn't be happy to drink by the glass.

As a complete contrast to Pinot Noir, I'm partial to a Cotes du Rhone with my Coq au Vin, which I think gives a wonderful depth of flavour to the dish, especially when plenty of fresh thyme is involved.

Why cook with wine?

Wine serves several purposes when cooked with protein - partly in breaking down muscle tissue - more relevant when cooking red meat - but also in releasing flavour molecules. Because of the natural acidity in wine, it also helps in balancing the richness of meat and fats to create a smooth, rich, depth of flavour.

What to drink with Coq au Vin

Preferably the same wine you used to cook it - but if this isn't available, go for a wine that is in the same vein, but better!

Mary's recipe

Ingredients

• A whole chicken cut into pieces or a pack of portions – skinless thighs and legs are best for this.
• 100g of either smoked lardons, smoked streaky bacon or pancetta cut into strips
• Some small round onions or a couple of medium onions chopped into decent squares.
• 2 carrots peeled and cut into thick slices on the diagonal
• 1 stick of celery sliced
• 1 or 2 peeled cloves of garlic
• 1 or 2 bay leaves
• A couple of sprigs of fresh thyme or a teaspoon of dried.
• At least half a bottle of red wine (or more if you have it)
• 1 pint chicken stock
• 1 or 2 packs of tiny button mushrooms - my kids used to fight over these
• 1 tbs plain flour
• Glug of Marsala or brandy
• Butter
• 1 tbs Olive Oil

Optional to finish

• Small tub crème fraiche
• Chopped fresh parsley to serve

Method 1 (If you have the time and organisational skills.)

Much as I hate recipes that start with the depressing instructions to start yesterday - if you do have a chance to do so - marinating the chicken in the wine before you start cooking does add depth of flavour.

How to marinate chicken in red wine

Bring the red wine to the boil and boil until reduced by a third, to remove the alcohol and concentrate the colour and flavour. Leave to cool. In a bowl, mix the chicken pieces, carrots, celery, garlic and herbs together and pour the cooled red wine over them. Cover with cling film, refrigerate and leave to marinate for 24 hours. Strain the liquid into a jug and pat dry the chicken before using.

If you are short of time and organisational skills - head straight to Method 2 below

Heat the butter and oil in a large frying pan and fry all the chicken pieces in small batches until golden all over. Remove the chicken pieces to some kitchen roll.

Add the lardons or bacon and the onions to the pan and cook till translucent and crispy 

Add a glug of masala and let it bubble for a couple of minutes

Turn the heat down and add a tablespoon of plain flour and stir like mad for about 2 minutes – don’t let it stick to the pan or burn.

Slowly add the wine and stock and bring to the boil then turn down to a simmer.

Add the chicken pieces, the mushrooms, the thyme and the bay leaf and cook for about 60 – 80 minutes on a gentle simmer. 

Remove all the chicken, bacon, onions and mushrooms to a warm plate and reduce the sauce by at least a third.  If you are using the Creme Fraiche, add it now and whisk until smooth before pouring over the chicken. Or just add the reduced sauce as it is.

This recipe is even better if made in advance - up to the adding of the creme fraiche stage if you are using.

Serve with fluffly mashed potatoes or small boiled ones. Rice works too.

Bon appetit!