Can you drink white wine with cheese?

Most of us reach for the red when faced with a chunk of cheese, but there is evidence to suggest that white may not only work better, but that it is, overall, the safer bet if you are faced with a well-stocked cheeseboard

Why do we drink wine with cheese?

There are both historical and scientific reason why we enjoy the combination of wine and cheese. Historically, the wines and cheeses produced by French and Italian monasteries in the Middle Ages, were consumed together, and even earlier than this, there is evidence to suggest that the Romans generally had both in their banquets. 

We often refer to the “what grows together, goes together” so it’s no coincidence that Brie and Champagne are often considered a natural pairing (they are from neighbouring regions), or that Sauvignon Blanc and goat’s cheese are so delicious together, given that they are both made in France’s Loire Valley.

Scientifically, the fats in cheese help soften the tannins in wine while the lactic acid helps to enhance the wine’s fruity, floral flavours. 

In a piece of Wine Trade folklore, British Wine Merchants of the 17th century used the adage, “Buy on an apple and sell on cheese”, meaning if a wine tasted good with an acidic apple, it would pair well with cheese, making it easier to sell. 

Red vs White wine with Cheese?

The conventional assumption has long favoured red wine with cheese, but the research challenges that.

A study published in the Journal of Food Science, conducted by sensory scientist Mara Galmarini at the Centre for Taste and Feeding Behaviour in Dijon, France, found that "red wine with cheese can either go really well or not that well," while "with a white wine, you have less risk." Meaning that white wines tend to be a safe bet if you have many cheeses, and not just one that you know will work with your bottle of red. (KUCB; 08.11.2016)

"Red wine with cheese can either go really well or not that well," says Mara Galmarini, a sensory scientist at CONICET, the Argentinian National Scientific and Technical Research Council. "With a white wine, you have less risk."

Ed Behr, influential food editor and writer at Art of Eating on Substack, has long argued that red wines and cheeses often fight, to the detriment of both. He is quoted in the KUCB article as saying that, "There's no question in my mind that white wine goes better. And more often than not, depending on the cheese, a little sweetness makes things even easier.”

Given that one of my secret pleasures is a glass of the Coteaux du Layon, a light, white dessert wine made from Chenin Blanc, with almost any blue cheese, I agree that this tantalising mix of salt and sweet provides a multi-sensory experience that is utterly moreish.

Why is white wine so good with cheese?

Essentially, it is the astringency, fruit flavours and structure of the wine (white or red) that balances the rich creaminess of the cheese, rather than the colour. Red wine is red because the grape juice is left to ferment with the dark skins and pips, and it is this that creates the tannin needed to provide structure for the finished wine. However if these tannins are too strong, or not well-integrated, they can create a dry mouth feel that essentially wrecks the balance between the creaminess of the cheese and the astringency of the wine. .

As with all food and wine pairings, finding the correct balance is what is most likely to lead to a pleasurable sensation, where the food and wine work together, rather than fighting each other for attention.

A few favourite white wine and cheese pairings

• Prosecco and good Parmesan
• Coteaux du Layon with Fourme d’Ambert
• Sancerre, Pouilly fumé or Menetou Salon with firm goat’s cheese
• Chenin Blanc with softer, milder goat’s cheese
• Chardonnay with mature cheddar
• Riesling with Gruyere, and most Swiss cheeses
• Gewurztraminer with Feta
• Champagne with Brie

What about my Glass of Red?

If you’re feeling a little bit sorry for your favourite bottle of red, don’t. There are still plenty of examples where red wines do have what it takes to stand up to cheese and create delicious combinations of their own. I do like to think about the growing together and going together advice, as this is usually a pretty good way to get it right. 

Favourite Red Wine & Cheese Pairings

• Pinot Noir with Époisses de Bourgogne (A washed-rind cheese whose rind is treated with local brandy, giving it an opulence that works well with the wine.)
• Rioja with Manchego where the red wine's bright acidity pairs perfectly with the nutty, creamy richness of the cheese
• Chianti with Pecorino (needs no explanation!)
• Merlot with smooth, creamy mountain cheeses such as Ossau-Iraty made from sheep’s milk

And finally...

Ultimately, of course, taste is subjective, and what brings you joy should always guide your food and wine pairings. But if you are not already pairing white wines with cheese, give it a go and decide which combinations do just that!